My Pets Online

Dogs are wonderful, loyal companions and an integral part of our families. Time flies, though, and in a few short years we start seeing changes in our faithful friends. There may be white hair around their muzzle, they may be less active and energetic, and they may be a little slow getting up. As a dog ages, his metabolism also slows, just like ours, and his health care and nutritional needs may change. Here is a look at how we can make life a little easier for our aging pets.

Exercise

Exercise is important even for older dogs. They need to keep their muscle tone and weight in control as they age, just like we do. Mature dogs may not have the stamina they once had and do better with frequent, brief walks or short swims. If your dog still likes being active, don’t forget to play his favorite games, like fetch or tug-o-war. Further, older dogs tend to urinate more often so they may need more frequent walks.

Get an Elevated Feeder

Elevated water and food dishes can be helpful. The height makes it more comfortable for dogs (not just older dogs, by the way) to eat and drink because it prevents strain on the neck and the feeding position is easier on their digestion.

A Comfortable Bed to Cushion Joints

Dogs often develop arthritis to some degree or another as they age. We can help them stay comfortable by providing them with a dog bed with firm orthopedic foam to support and cushion their bones and joints and help insulate them from the floor. There are many styles available, from traditional style dog beds to nests with orthopedic foam bases, to bolster beds and mats.

Give Him a Boost

A ramp to get up or down safely from high areas such as a car, or a step to give him a boost to his favorite chair or your bed (if you allow him on it) may make it easier on your dog’s aging joints. They’re especially handy for larger dogs that are too big or heavy to lift easily. They come in a variety of styles and prices.

Review Your Dog’s Nutritional Needs

As you dog gets older, his nutritional needs may change. Generally, senior dogs need to eat a balanced diet that is lower in calories, protein, and fat than the food they ate as youngsters. Mature dogs may experience constipation, so a diet high in fiber is recommended. If your dog is still active and healthy, you may be able to continue feeding him his regular food, but a lesser amount. You can add oat bran or wheat for extra fiber. There are also commercial senior dog foods available.

Also consider nutritional supplements. I have been giving my dog a supplement of glucosamine and chondroitin since she was a puppy to help keep her joints healthy. Hopefully this will help reduce the possibility/effects of arthritis as she gets older. Also, if you feel your dog is not getting his nutritional needs met through diet, there are number of good canine nutritional supplements available.

Pay Attention to Changes in Behavior

You may see signs in your dog like loss of appetite, weakness, irritability, changes in his gait, incontinence, or slowness in getting up. Typically, these are signs that your pet is getting older and will need extra care and attention. Talk to your vet about what you can do to help your pet as he ages, and have your vet perform a yearly geriatric exam so he can try to take care of any new health issues before they progress.

Love and Attention

Most of all, give your mature dog extra love and care. Our dogs give us years of affection, loyalty, and attention; don’t they deserve the very best care we can give them?

Valerie Goettsch is webmaster of http://www.My-Favorite-Dog.com featuring articles and information on dog health care, puppy training & more

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There are LOTS of products to protect your dogs, cats, ferrets, mice, rats etc., and if you give me a minute I’ll sell you all of them at http://www.gonatures.com but today I’m out to save you some money, get you much closer to your pet, and eliminate the need for my own Flea & Tick products. Here’s a few tips you can easily use to deal with Ticks, Fleas and other small insect parasites that, literally, LIVE to hitch a ride on your little loved ones.

Eucalyptus: I’ve had 2 separate, successful incidents of eliminating a flea infestation in my home using this common tree. By Infestation I mean fleas jumping on my bare feet while just walking through a room. It got that bad because we did NOT want to use an insecticide at all, let alone INSIDE our house! I did a lot of research on natural methods of dealing with fleas and ticks. Most were a bust, but we did find a write-up in Jethro Kloss’ “Back to Eden” that suggested using Eucalyptus.

Here’s what we did: There happened to be a grove of Eucalyptus trees just across the road from our house. We went over there and picked up a bunch of fallen branches and cut a few down too. We took them all across the street, took all the leaves off and spread them all over the house. About 48 hours later, there wasn’t a flea or tick to be found, not even on Disco (the cat) or Toke (The dog). As it turns out, most insects, including fleas and ticks, are not particularly fond of the scent. They simply left on their own. We were delighted that we didn’t have to harm anything, including the pests we wanted to be rid of, while solving a real problem with no cost what so ever.

Years later I had the same problem with a roommates’ Cat. My roommate insisted her name was “Sly” but I called her “The Evil One”! That’s a story for another day, however. This time there were no Eucalyptus trees to be found and we didn’t have the luxury of raiding a nearby grove. So I tried the next best thing. I remembered that it was the scent that the nasty little buggers didn’t like, so I went to “the Body Shoppe” at the Mall and got some Eucalyptus oil and put it in a spray bottle with a bunch of warm water and walked through the house spraying every carpet and rug I could find. Furniture too! Sure enough, about 48 hours later, we were free of fleas and ticks and the house smelled nice too.

Love that Jethro Kloss! He also suggested making a shampoo for furry animals that includes good concentrations of Pennyroyal. It’s as effective as any current meds available today but it’s a lot more labor intensive. It smells pretty good too! You have to shampoo your pets regularly, about every 5-7 days in some cases. The labor comes in when you have to negotiate with a cat to give them a shampoo ONCE let alone every 5 days. The Dogs had fun with the whole operation, though. When they got out of the tub naturally they would run through the house shaking the water off their coats (Pennyroyal and all) all over the house. Immunizing the rugs and furniture in the process. How thoughtful!

Lastly, and this one works for Ticks much better than fleas, you can pick up some “Brewer’s Yeast” or “Nutritional Yeast” in the bulk section of most grocery stores these days and certainly at any natural food store and it’s dirt cheap. Just sprinkle a little bit on your dog or cat’s food every so often. When a tick bites your loved one they don’t like the taste and start looking for another host to hitch a ride on. Don’t over do the yeast sprinkling even though you dogs and cats love the taste. It gave Disco and Toke the runs because I started out thinking I had to use a heavy concentration. Just a little will do the trick and you’ll save yourself the nasty chore of cleaning up runny,,, um,,, well, you get my meaning J!

As an aside: A little Brewer’s Yeast and soy sauce on your popcorn and/or your baked potatoes is a real delight at my house and it DOESN’T give us the runs. Nutrirional Yeast is high in B Vitamins and it’s yummy too! Since you already have some in the house now anyway…..

So, if you don’t want to go to all the trouble of using these “Back to Nature” tricks, we have a variety of solutions for your pets that are also natural, but we do all the work FOR you. Stop by and see what we have for you and your funny furry freaky friends at http://www.gonatures.com

Much Love,
Gregory

Gregory Franklyn is a 50 something native of Detroit who currently calls the Pacific Northwest his home. He has studied and applied Natural and Alternative remedies for common ailments for over 15 years. He currently operates a website dedicated to information and products that naturally enhance the human body’s ability to heal itself. Franklyn is NOT a medical health professional. Visit http://www.gonatures.com

In the movies, the Doberman is portrayed as an aggressive dog that lunges at people with vicious eyes. In truth, Dobermans are loyal, intelligent family pets.

The American Kennel Club places the breed in the working group class along with dogs such as the Great Dane and the Boxer. They were originally bred for police work and even used in the German military (which is not surprising since the sight of these powerful dogs could make a person anxious.)

Physically, the Doberman is square with a strong chest and a bullet shaped head. It can weight around 55 to 90 pounds with a height of 24 to 28 inches. The coat is black, red or fawn with tan markings. Some Dobermans have a small section of white fur on their chest. The eyes are almond shaped and dark and most owners dock the tail to prevent painful accidents in the future.

The Doberman is a very energetic dog. They do need a lot of exercise so an apartment setting is not suitable. Even if you do have a yard, Dobermans enjoy time with their owners and need to be walked daily.

This breed is a family dog. They are eager to please and can be trained successfully. If you have a puppy in the same house as a small child, you might want to be a little more vigilant because the puppy doesn’t know its own strength yet and can knock the child down.

Begin training as soon as you bring the dog home. Dobermans are smart. They can get into trouble if left alone. If you have a puppy, enroll it in puppy obedience class while still young and easy to control.

Nutritionally speaking, the Doberman pincher needs plenty of food and the food must be specially formulated for large dogs to ensure it gets the desirable nutrients.

As a breed the Doberman are prone to becoming overweight when they get older. Check with the doctor to ensure your dog is on the right track. Other possible afflictions are heart disease, hypothyroidism and a hereditary disease called Von Willenbrand’s disease.

It is relatively easy to groom your dog. All that is required is to brush the it once a week to remove dirt and cut their nails when they get too long.

In truth a Doberman Pincher is a pleasure to have in the family. If you want a dog that can guard the home and still be loyal and loving then you should definitely consider the Doberman.

George Adams is a staff writer at http://www.pets-digest.com and is an occasional contributor to several other websites, including http://www.recreation-digest.com..

An explanation of why the first English Shih Tzu imports were “very large” is during the days of imperial rule eunuchs were in charge. Eunuchs tried to profit from all breedings. The oversized specimens produced were passed into the hands of the general public.

Eunuchs fed glass to the small Imperial Shih Tzu just shortly before committing suicide themselves. This practice kept others from breeding their bloodlines of the smaller type Imperial Shih Tzu. I suppose feeding the Shih Tzu glass was the only way they could think of to “protect their bloodlines. This practice is comparable to the Shih Tzu breeders of today, some of whom, routinely spay and neuter their Shih Tzu at the very young age of 8 weeks. There are, however, many health advantages to spaying and neutering a Shih Tzu puppy early. Most vets agree spaying and neutering should be done not sooner than 6 months of age.

The Countess d’Anjou was a leading western authority on the Shih Tzu breed. She felt the first English Shih Tzu imports were too large. She agreed to a Peking Kennel Club standard of 10 to 15 pounds. This was an agreement she later regretted. In a very famous letter the Countess wrote to Mrs. Widdrington, she states the Shih Tzu really should be under 12 pounds. At one time in Peking they had two classes, up to 12 pounds and over 12 pounds judged separately. She went on to say in her letter to Mrs. Widdrington, “they never had the big ones in the Imperial Palace…” The Countess acquired her information from the Princess Der Ling who was a lady-in-waiting at court. Princess Der Ling had a unique position to know exactly what the palace dogs were truly like. The Countess’ letter gave no explanation as to what happened to the larger Shih Tzu. Her letter did make it quite clear that only the small Shih Tzu were kept in the Imperial Palace. There was some measure of priority given to them at Peking Kennel Club Shows. The Countess’ wanted this arrangement to continue in Europe. Obviously this did not happen.

Empress Dowager and the eunuchs did not want outsiders to have possession of the smaller size Shih Tzu. However, these little guys do still live on with some of us. The tactics used to keep the smaller size Shih Tzu a secret of the Imperial Palace was not completely successful.

I want to emphasize the fact that the American Kennel Club’s standard weight for a Shih Tzu is 9 to 16 pounds. Any Shih Tzu entered into AKC competitions under this weight is considered a fault and is disqualified.

There are not two separate types of Shih Tzu according to the current American Kennel Club standard in the year of 2005. The nicknames of Imperial and Teacup Shih Tzu for Shih Tzu under 9 pounds in weight are just that - Nicknames. These are not official names given to the Shih Tzu.

Take a closer look at the history and development of the Shih Tzu since the fall of the Imperial Palace. The smaller type Shih Tzu genes are interspersed throughout our bloodlines. Imperial and Teacup Shih Tzu, commonly nicknamed, are a direct result of the Original Imperial Palace Shih Tzu. The Pekingese cross after the fall of the Imperial Palace also accounts for the smaller size Shih Tzu. It is not true that “size” predicts health status. It is not true that all small size Shih Tzu are produced from excessive line-breeding and inbreeding of close relatives.

This article does not promote or advocate the crossbreeding of Shih Tzu with any other breed to reduce size or for any other reason. The American Shih Tzu Club code of ethics clearly states this is not acceptable. The code of ethics should be followed.

This article is FREE to publish with resource box.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Some dog owners believe that a dog is a dog, and that his place is on the floor exclusively. Some feel that he is a member of the family, and that he should be allowed up on chairs or sofas if he feels like it. And there are attitudes in between that may dictate permission for him to get up on one “favorite chair.” Generally the split is between country and city, with country dogs being relegated to the floor and city dogs having the run of the place.

If he is going to be strictly a floor dog, then he should never be allowed up on any piece of furniture, right from the start. Being up on the couch with you or solo hold little distinction for him and it will only confuse him later if you deny him the privilege. When he is little, he won’t be able to negotiate the height, so there is no problem with him climbing up.

As he grows and investigates, he will try to climb up just to see what is there. Push him off gently and tell him “no” a few times and he will get the idea. Later he may try to occupy it while you are out of the house. An easy solution to train him is a few light mousetraps covered with a sheet or newspaper set near the back of the cushion. The trap can’t hurt him and the snapping noise will solve the problem.

If you decide that he is going to be a full member of the household with all privileges, the problems are only those of dirt and reactions. As for dirt, he should be trained to wait at the door for a quick cleaning with an old rag after he has been out of doors. By the time he is old enough to climb onto chairs easily he will be old enough to have learned the “sit and stay” and there ends the problem.

As far as reactions go, this is really something between you and your friends. Somewhat fastidious friends who come to visit may find dogs on furniture disagreeable, particularly if the dog has to be shooed off of the chair they are about to sit in. If he is a chair sitter in your house, he may try to be one when he goes visiting with you. So set up a rigid rule for him - okay at home, forbidden elsewhere, and don’t make exceptions and he won’t be likely to be confused.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed Joncopets.com. On the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest dog collars and more for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at http://www.joncopets.com

We all hate to leave our pets behind if we go on vacation or have to leave home for a few days. However, we can’t always take them with us so if you don’t have family or friends that are able to take care of them you most likely need a dog kennel.

To find a good kennel ask for recommendations from friends, family, your veterinarian or grooming shops.

You should then visit the kennel and look for these things.

License

Staff - are they friendly, knowledgeable, seem to care about the dogs there?

Sanitation - Are the runs clean? Do they look like they have an effective system? Do they have barriers high enough to prevent male dogs from urinating into adjacent runs?

Facility - Is it in good repair, neat, clean, smell clean and clear of debris?

Exercise area - Do dogs have freedom of movement? It the floor concrete so it can be easily disinfected? How much time do they get outdoors?

Climate - Is there proper temperature control and is ventilation good with no draughts?

Sleeping area - Is there clean, dry and large enough for a dog to stand, stretch out or turn around? Do they have solid dividers between kennels? Is the bedding clean?

Cages and gates - Are they secure and in good repair?

How many dogs in facility - Are there to many?

Food - You may want to bring food that your dog is already eating if they don’t have it. You don’t want him to get sick from a change in diet.

Water - Is it available at all times, does the water look clean in the bowls and are the bowls clean?

Veterinarian - Do they have a vet on call? Will they contact your vet if needed?

Find out the cost, drop off time and pick up. How far in advance should you book?

When you do take your dog for his stay take along:

Vaccinations records

Emergency contacts - veterinarian and your numbers.

Pet schedule - also pet medications with instructions.

Take something from home like a blanket or toy.

Food if needed

Usually if a dog is introduced early in life to kennels be doesn’t have a problem. Of course all dogs are different and it’s hard to predict how they will react. You should start with a weekend to see how he does. Ask the staff how his behavior and appetite were so you can judge how it went. Of course check his general condition and grooming to see how well he was taken care of.

If they do have trouble maybe next time you should look into a bonded pet-sitting service. Maybe you know someone who does pet sitting in your home. Check out your options.

Lastly, ask your veterinarian if your dog needs kennel cough intra-nasal vaccination.

Sandy Oberreuter has a web site on small dog breeds with articles on popular small dogs, dogs good with children and seniors, breeders, dog diseases, dog day care, hypoallergenic dogs and more.

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